15+ Easy Small Canvas Painting Ideas for Cozy DIY Decor

Capture the serene beauty of dusk with this vibrant gradient painting. Smooth transitions from purple to orange provide the perfect glowing backdrop for crisp black pine tree silhouettes.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Creating the Sunset Gradient

1. Prepare the violet base:
   Start by mixing a small amount of Deep Violet with a touch of Magenta. Use your flat shader brush to apply this dark mixture across the top 1/5th of the canvas using long, horizontal strokes.
2. Add the first transition:
   Without cleaning your brush, pick up pure Magenta. Apply it directly below the violet strip, slightly overlapping the wet edge to encourage blending.
3. Intensify the pinks:
   Clean your brush quickly and pick up a mix of Magenta and Cadmium Orange. Paint the next section down, working the brush back and forth horizontally where the colors meet to create a seamless blur.
4. Move into orange:
   For the middle section, switch to pure Cadmium Orange. Apply it below the pinkish band, ensuring you blend upward into the previous color while the paint remains wet.
5. Create the golden glow:
   Mix Cadmium Yellow with a little Orange. Apply this lighter hue below the orange band, keeping your strokes smooth and consistent.
6. Paint the horizon:
   For the lowest part of the sky (just before the tree line starts), mix Cadmium Yellow with Titanium White. This should be the brightest part of the painting, representing the last light of the sun.
7. Refine the blend:
   With a clean, slightly damp brush, gently run over the entire sky from top to bottom (or section by section) to smooth out any harsh lines between color bands.
8. Dry completely:
   Let the gradient dry fully. This is crucial—if the sky is wet, the black silhouette will muddy the colors. I usually wait about 20 minutes or use a hair dryer.

Step 2: Painting the Foreground Silhouette

1. Establish the ground line:
   Load your flat brush with pure Mars Black. Paint a solid undulating line across the bottom inch of the canvas to create the forest floor base.
2. Start the main tree:
   Switch to your small round detail brush. Create the largest pine tree on the right side by painting a thin vertical line for the trunk, extending high into the pink/purple section.
3. Form the tree top:
   At the very top of the trunk line, dab tiny dots to create a sharp, pointed tip.
4. Stipple the branches:
   Working your way down the trunk, use a stippling motion (tapping the brush tip) to create branches. Keep the top branches very short and widen them as you descend.
5. Add distant trees:
   Mix a tiny drop of purple into your black to slightly lighten it for the distant horizon trees in the middle. Paint small, jagged shapes just above the black ground line to simulate a far-off forest.
6. Paint the left-side trees:
   Using pure black again, add a cluster of medium-sized pine trees on the left. Vary their heights so they don’t look like a picket fence.
7. Create mid-ground texture:
   Fill the space between the main foreground trees with smaller, less detailed tree shapes. This adds depth and makes the forest look dense.
8. Refine the edges:
   Go back with your smallest detail brush and add tiny stray branches sticking out from the main silhouettes to make them look more organic.
9. Finish the sides:
   Don’t forget to paint the black ground and sky colors around the sides of the canvas for a polished, frameless look.

Now you have a stunning miniature landscape that brings the warmth of a summer evening into any room

Create a serene and whimsical atmosphere with this gentle, blush-toned sky painting. This project focuses on soft gradients and building fluffy, dimensional clouds beneath a delicate crescent moon.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Setting the Sky Gradient

1. Mix the base pink:
   Start by mixing a generous amount of Titanium White with a small touch of Rose Pink and the tiniest speck of Burnt Sienna. You want a soft, fleshy pastel pink, not a bright bubblegum shade.
2. Apply the top color:
   Using your flat shader brush, paint the top two-thirds of the canvas with this soft pink mixture. Ensure you paint the sides of the canvas as well for a polished, gallery-wrapped look.
3. Mix the warm transition tone:
   While the pink is still wet, mix a little Yellow Ochre and a touch more Burnt Sienna into your white-pink mix to create a very subtle, warm peach tone.
4. Create the gradient:
   Apply this warmer peach tone to the bottom third of the canvas, brushing upward into the wet pink paint. Use long, horizontal strokes to blend the two colors seamlessly where they meet.
5. Let it cure:
   Allow the background to dry completely. Acrylics dry darker, so don’t worry if the gradient looks subtle now; it will serve as a perfect backdrop.

Step 2: Painting the Moon and Stars

1. Sketch the crescent:
   Mix a pale cream color using Titanium White and a tiny dot of Yellow Ochre. Using your smallest round brush, carefully outline a thin crescent moon shape in the upper right center of the sky.
2. Fill and texture the moon:
   Fill in the moon shape. Keep the paint slightly translucent on the inner curve to make it look like it’s glowing. I like to dab a tiny bit of pure white on the outer edge for brightness.
3. Add distant stars:
   Using the very tip of your detail brush and the same pale cream mix, dot varying sizes of stars around the moon. Add tiny cross-shapes for bigger twinkling stars.

Step 3: Building the clouds

1. Mix shadow colors:
   Prepare a ‘cloud shadow’ color by taking your original pink base and adding a touch more Rose Pink to darken it slightly. It should be just a shade or two deeper than the sky.
2. Block in cloud shapes:
   Using the filbert brush, use a dappling or twisting motion to create the base shapes of the clouds along the bottom third of the canvas. These don’t need to be perfect; just organic, bumpy mounds.
3. Layer the highlights:
   Clean your brush and pick up pure Titanium White. While the shadow layer is tacky but not fully wet, tap white onto the very tops of your cloud mounds.
4. Blend the fluff:
   Gently scumble the bottom edge of your white highlights into the pink shadow color. You want a hard edge on the top of the cloud and a soft, misty blend on the bottom.
5. Add lower cloud layers:
   Repeat this process to create layers closer to the viewer. Paint new dark pink mounds overlapping the bottom of the first layer, then highlight their tops with white.
6. Create depth:
   Make ensure the clouds at the very bottom are slightly larger and brighter than the ones tucked behind them. This builds perspective.
7. Final highlights:
   Take a small detail brush with thick Titanium White and trace the very specific upper rims of the most prominent clouds to make them pop against the background.

Display your mini masterpiece on a small easel or shelf to add a touch of calm to any room

Capture the serene beauty of a setting sun with this pocket-sized seascape. The soft gradient sky and gently rippling water create a peaceful atmosphere perfect for a small corner of your home.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Setting the Sky Gradient

1. Prime the top half:
   Begin by determining your horizon line, situated just slightly below the center of the canvas. Using your wide flat brush, paint the upper area with a layer of Unbleached Titanium or a creamy white to create a smooth base.
2. Blend the upper sky:
   While the base is still wet, mix a tiny touch of orange into your cream color. Apply this to the top third of the canvas using long, horizontal strokes.
3. Introduce the pinks:
   Clean your brush and pick up some Light Pink mixed with a significant amount of White. Brush this across the middle section of the sky, blending gently upward into the creamy yellow zone.
4. Intensify the horizon:
   Mix a vibrant sunset shade using Light Pink and a small dot of Cadmium Orange. Apply this directly above your horizon line.
5. Smooth the transitions:
   With a clean, slightly damp brush, sweep back and forth across the areas where colors meet to create a seamless, soft-focus gradient. I like to do this quickly before the acrylics tack up.
6. Paint the edges:
   Don’t forget to wrap the sky colors around the sides of the canvas frame for a polished, gallery-ready look.

Step 2: Painting the Ocean Base

1. Establish the horizon line:
   Use a piece of painter’s tape or a steady hand with a flat brush to cut a straight line across the horizon using a mix of Phthalo Blue and White.
2. Block in the water:
   Fill the bottom half of the canvas with a horizontal gradient. Start with a lighter, pale turquoise just under the horizon (White + Teal) and transition to a deeper teal blue at the bottom edge.
3. Add reflection foundation:
   While the blue paint is wet, mix a little of your sunset pink and orange. Lightly brush this exclusively in the center of the water area, directly below where the sun would be setting.
4. Let it dry:
   Allow this base layer of the ocean to dry completely before adding texture. This prevents the colors from becoming muddy.

Step 3: Creating Waves and Light

1. Mix your shadow color:
   Create a darker version of your ocean color by mixing Phthalo Blue with a tiny touch of black or deep purple.
2. Define the wave troughs:
   Using the edge of a small flat brush, tap in horizontal, broken lines starting from the bottom of the canvas. These marks should be thicker at the bottom and get thinner and closer together as they recede toward the horizon.
3. Add the sun’s reflection:
   Mix a pale peach color (White + Orange). Using a small round brush, add short, horizontal dashes in the center of the water, focused on the “path” of light leading to the viewer.
4. Highlight the waves:
   With nearly pure White paint on a detail brush, add very thin lines on the top edges of the nearest waves to make them look like they are catching the last rays of light.
5. Contrast check:
   Step back and see if the water needs depth. If it looks flat, glaze a very watered-down dark teal over the bottom corners to deepen the foreground.
6. Final blending:
   If any wave lines look too harsh, use a damp brush to soften their edges slightly, mimicking the movement of water.
7. Finish the sides:
   Ensure the ocean colors and horizon line continue around the sides of the canvas to match the front.

Hang your mini masterpiece on the wall and enjoy the eternal sunset view

Capture the quiet magic of a crisp night sky on a petite canvas. This beginner-friendly project uses layers of indigo and metallic gold to create a dreamy, deep-space effect perfect for a bookshelf or bedside table.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Setting the Night Scene

1. Prepare the deep base:
   Start by mixing a small amount of black into your navy blue paint. You want a very deep, rich midnight color, not pure flat black. Apply this mixture over the entire canvas using your large flat brush.
2. Paint the edges:
   Don’t forget the sides of the canvas. Wrapping the dark background color around the edges gives the piece a polished, gallery-ready look without needing a frame.
3. Add subtle depth:
   While the base coat is still slightly tacky, mix a tiny drop of white into your navy blue to create a color just a shade lighter. Use the filbert brush to blend some soft, cloud-like patches near the bottom right and center.
4. Let it dry completely:
   This step is crucial. Allow the background to dry fully—usually about 15-20 minutes—before moving on. If you rush this, the moon’s paint will turn muddy instead of standing out.

Step 2: Creating the Crescent

1. Sketch the moon:
   Lightly draw a crescent moon shape in the center of the canvas using a pencil. If you struggle with freehanding curves, lightly trace two overlapping circles using a jar lid or compass.
2. Base coat the moon:
   Fill in the crescent shape with a layer of titanium white paint first. This primer layer ensures the yellow and gold pop against the dark background.
3. Apply the pale yellow:
   Once the white is dry, paint over it with a creamy pale yellow. It doesn’t need to be perfectly opaque; a little texture here actually helps mimic craters.
4. Add golden shadows:
   Dip your brush into metallic gold paint. Gently swipe it along the inner curve of the crescent. I like to feather this outward slightly to blend it into the yellow.
5. Highlight the edge:
   Mix a tiny bit of white with the metallic gold. Use your fine liner brush to paint a crisp, bright line along the outer convex edge of the moon for extra definition.

Step 3: Starlight Details

1. Create distant stars:
   Dip a dedicated toothbrush or a stiff bristle brush into watered-down white paint. Test it on a paper towel first, then gently flick the bristles to spray tiny specks across the canvas.
2. Paint prominent stars:
   Using your finest liner brush and pure white paint, embrace the ‘dot’ technique. Place individual dots around the moon, varying their sizes to create depth.
3. Add sparkle:
   Choose 3 or 4 of the larger white dots to turn into twinkling stars. Paint a tiny cross (+) and then an ‘x’ over the top to create an eight-pointed glimmer.
4. Incorporate gold stars:
   Take your metallic gold paint again and add a few small golden dots scattered among the white ones. This warms up the composition and ties the stars to the moon.
5. Refine the background clouds:
   If your background clouds faded too much, you can glaze over them now. Mix a large amount of water with a tiny dot of light blue paint and wash it thinly over the lower section.
6. Final touches:
   Check the points of your crescent moon. Use the dark background color to sharpen the tips if they became too thick during the painting process.

Place your finished canvas on a mini easel to enjoy a peaceful view of the night sky anytime

Capture the delicate simplicity of nature with this striking daisy close-up on a small square canvas. The soft sage green background makes the crisp white petals and warm, golden center pop, creating a cheerful piece perfect for any windowsill.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Setting the Scene

1. Base coat application:
   Begin by covering your entire canvas with Sage Green acrylic paint. Don’t forget to paint the sides of the canvas as well so it looks finished from every angle when displayed.
2. Second layer:
   Once the first coat is dry to the touch, apply a second coat of Sage Green to ensure an opaque, even finish. Let this dry completely before moving on.
3. Initial sketch:
   Using a piece of pale yellow chalk or a very light pencil, lightly sketch the large oval shape of the daisy’s center slightly off-center to the right. Then, draw faint guidelines for the petals radiating outward from this core.

Step 2: Painting the Petals

1. Petal foundation:
   Load your flat brush with Titanium White. Start painting the basic shapes of the petals, pressing down near the center and pulling outwards to create a tapered tip. Don’t worry about perfect coverage yet; this is just mapping out the flower.
2. Gray undertones:
   Mix a tiny amount of Raw Umber or black into your white to create a very pale, cool gray. Paint thin streaks along the shadow side of some petals—usually the ones that would be ‘underneath’ other petals—to create depth.
3. Building opacity:
   Go back over your petals with pure Titanium White. Use confident strokes that follow the length of the petal to mimic the natural texture. Leave some of that pale gray visible near the edges or bases for dimension.
4. Highlight ridges:
   Mix a thick, creamy white. Using a smaller round brush, paint subtle ridges down the center of several petals, especially those catching the most ‘light’ on the left side.
5. Background touch-ups:
   If you painted over your background too messy, use your small brush and some Sage Green to carefully cut back into the petals, reshaping their tips to be cleaner and sharper.

Step 3: The Golden Center

1. Base color:
   Fill in the oval center area with Yellow Ochre. It acts as a warm mid-tone foundation for the detailed texture we’ll add next.
2. Defining the core:
   Paint a smaller, darker circle slightly off-center inside the yellow oval using a mix of Burnt Sienna and Cadmium Yellow. This creates the ‘eye’ of the daisy.
3. Stippling shadows:
   Using the very tip of your round brush or a stippling motion with an old brush, tap Raw Umber mixed with Burnt Sienna along the bottom and right edge of the center to create a shadow curve.
4. Adding texture:
   Mix Cadmium Yellow with a little white. Using your smallest liner brush, dot hundreds of tiny points all over the center, concentrating brighter, lighter dots on the top left side to simulate sunlight hitting the texture.
5. Deepest accents:
   Add a few tiny dots of pure Burnt Sienna or dark orange in the transition zone between the light yellow dots and the shadow area for rich contrast.

Step 4: Final Details

1. Stem suggestion:
   Mix a darker green using Sage Green and a touch of Raw Umber. Paint a simple, thin stem extending downwards from the flower, disappearing off the bottom edge.
2. Petal shadows:
   Where the petals meet the yellow center, paint very small, soft shadows using a diluted gray wash. This helps ‘seat’ the center so it doesn’t look like it’s floating.
3. Final highlights:
   I like to take pure white on my liner brush and add one last, crisp highlight to the very tips of the top-most petals to make them shine.
4. Signature:
   Sign your name in the bottom corner using a fine liner brush and the dark green mixture, keeping it small and unobtrusive.
5. Varnish:
   Allow the painting to cure for at least 24 hours. Finish with a satin or gloss varnish to protect the paint and make the colors appear more vibrant.

Place your finished canvas on a small easel or shelf to bring a permanent burst of sunshine into your room

This serene painting uses clean lines and a soothing, earthy palette to create a stylized mountain range that feels both modern and timeless. It’s a perfect beginner project because it relies on overlapping flat shapes rather than complex shading or blending.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Planning the Composition

1. Prepare the sky:
   Begin by mixing a very pale, dusty blue. Combine a large amount of Titanium White with a tiny dot of Ultramarine Blue and a speck of Mars Black to desaturate it. Paint the entire top two-thirds of the canvas with this color. I like to paint the sides of the canvas as I go for a finished look.
2. Add clouds:
   While the sky is drying, mix a nearly pure white with just a hint of your sky color. Using the edge of a flat brush, gently scumble in a few thin, horizontal cloud streaks near the top. Keep them subtle and translucent.
3. Dry completely:
   Let this background layer dry fully before sketching. If the paint is wet, your pencil will dig into the texture.
4. Sketch the peaks:
   Using a pencil, lightly draw your mountain ranges. Start with the furthest range (highest up), drawing three triangular peaks. Then draw a middle range overlapping them, and finally a foreground range at the bottom. The shapes should be simple triangles.

Step 2: Painting the Distant Ranges

1. Mix the furthest mountain color:
   Create a pale, creamy beige for the furthest mountains. Mix Titanium White with a small amount of Yellow Ochre and a tiny touch of Burnt Sienna. It should be just slightly darker than the sky.
2. Paint the top peaks:
   Fill in the highest mountain shapes with this cream color. Use a flat brush to keep the edges crisp.
3. Mix the second range color:
   For the next layer down, we want a muted sage green. Mix Titanium White, Hooker’s Green, and a bit of Yellow Ochre to warm it up. Add a touch of black or grey if it feels too vibrant.
4. Apply the sage layer:
   Paint the middle band of mountains. Ensure this layer slightly overlaps the bottom edge of the cream mountains above it to create depth.
5. Create the blue-grey accent:
   Mix a muted slate blue color using Ultramarine Blue, White, and a touch of Burnt Sienna to dull it down. Paint the specific triangular section on the left side that sits between the green and red layers.

Step 3: The Foreground Layers

1. Mix the brick red:
   Create a deep, warm terracotta. Start with Burnt Sienna and add a little Red if you have it, or just use Burnt Sienna with a tiny touch of Black to deepen it. This color anchors the left side of the painting.
2. Paint the dark peak:
   Fill in the large mountain shape on the mid-left side. This dark value adds necessary contrast to the pastel upper layers.
3. Mix the mauve-brown:
   Adjust your brick red mixture by adding a little White and a touch of Blue to create the dusty mauve-brown shade seen on the right side of the middle ground.
4. Fill the middle-right section:
   Paint the mountain section situated behind the final foreground peak, ensuring the top edge is sharp against the sage green layer.
5. Mix the foreground peach:
   For the closest mountain, mix a warm, light terracotta. Combine White, Burnt Sienna, and plenty of Yellow Ochre. It should be lighter than the brick red but darker than the cream peaks.
6. Paint the final peak:
   Fill in the large triangle at the very bottom center. This is your foreground, so ensure the paint is opaque and the lines are steady.
7. Touch up edges:
   Once all layers are dry, inspect your ‘valleys’ where colors meet. If there are gaps, use a small liner brush to carefully fill them in.

Display your mini mountain range on a shelf or desk for a daily dose of calm

This charming little canvas features a classic three-stemmed cactus sitting comfortably in a terracotta pot against a soothing mint-blue background. The stark contrast between the prickly green plant and the warm, reddish-brown pot makes for a delightful, modern piece of decor.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Setting the Scene

1. Mix the background color:
   Start by creating a soft, minty blue-green shade. Mix a large amount of Titanium White with a very small touch of Hooker’s Green and a tiny dot of blue if your green is too warm. You want a pastel, airy color.
2. Paint the background:
   Using your flat brush, cover the entire canvas with your mixed background color. Don’t forget to paint the sides of the canvas for a finished look. Let this dry completely before moving on.
3. Sketch the outline:
   Lightly sketch the pot and the cactus with a pencil. Draw a simple tapered cylinder for the pot with a rim at the top. For the cactus, draw a tall central oval column with two smaller, slightly curved ‘arms’ emerging from the lower sides.

Step 2: Painting the Pot

1. Base coat the pot:
   Mix Burnt Sienna with a little Red Oxide to get a rich clay color. Fill in the main body of the pot and the rim using your round brush, keeping the edges neat.
2. Add shadows:
   While the base is still slightly tacky, mix a tiny bit of Mars Black into your clay color. Apply this darker shade on the right side of the pot and under the rim to create a shadow, blending it gently toward the center.
3. Highlight the clay:
   Mix a little White into your original clay color. Paint a soft highlight on the left side of the pot and the left side of the rim to give the object volume.
4. Paint the soil:
   Use Mars Black to fill in the oval area at the top of the pot where the cactus sits. Stipple (tap) the brush slightly to mimic the texture of dirt.

Step 3: Creating the Cactus

1. Base coat the cactus:
   Mix Sap Green with a touch of White to create a medium green. Fill in all three sections of the cactus. The paint should be opaque, so apply a second coat if the background shows through.
2. Define the ribs:
   Imagine the cactus has vertical ridges. Using a slightly darker green (Sap Green without white), paint vertical stripes down the length of the main stem and the arms curves. These represent the valleys between the ribs.
3. Highlight the ridges:
   Mix a lighter green by adding more White and a little Yellow (if available) to your base green. Paint thin lines between your dark stripes. This creates the illusion of raised ridges catching the light.
4. Blend the form:
   With a clean, damp brush, very gently soften the transitions between your light and dark stripes so the cactus looks rounded rather than flat.

Step 4: Prickly Details

1. Add the areoles:
   Using your fine liner brush and pure White paint, make tiny star-shaped marks or small asterisks in vertical rows along the highlighted ridges of the cactus. These interact as the base for the spines.
2. Paint the dark spines:
   Switch to Black or very dark green on your liner brush. Paint tiny, sharp needles sticking out from the edges of the cactus silhouette.
3. Add highlights to spines:
   On top of the black spines along the silhouette, add a few extremely fine strokes of white to show light hitting the needles.
4. Top spikes:
   Add a cluster of small black vertical spikes at the very top of the main stem and the tips of the two arms.
5. Final touches:
   Check your soil area; add a few tiny dots of light grey or brown to make the dirt look crumbly, and ensure there is a clean dark line separating the cactus base from the soil.

Once the paint is fully dry, you can display your resilient little desert friend on a shelf or desk

Capture the soft, velvety texture of a single peach against a striking, deep blue backdrop in this focused study. This small-format project is perfect for practicing fruit textures and bold color contrast without the pressure of a complex composition.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Preparation and Background

1. Prime the Surface:
   If your canvas isn’t pre-primed, apply two coats of gesso, letting it dry completely between layers. A smooth surface helps achievable that velvety skin texture later.
2. Sketch the Shape:
   Lightly draw the outline of the peach in the center of the canvas using a pencil. Remember to include the signature cleft (the indented line) running down the side and a small stem at the top.
3. Mix the Background Blue:
   Create a rich, deep blue by mixing Ultramarine Blue with a touch of Phthalo Blue. Add a tiny dot of Burnt Umber to slightly desaturate it so it isn’t neon bright.
4. Block in the Background:
   Using your flat shader brush, paint the entire negative space around the peach. Be sure to paint the sides of the canvas as well for a polished, frameless look.
5. Add Background Variation:
   While the blue is still slightly wet, I like to mix a tiny bit of white into the blue and streak it loosely near the top right to suggest subtle lighting. Let the background dry completely.

Step 2: Underpainting the Fruit

1. Base Coat:
   Mix a warm, pale yellow using Cadmium Yellow and Titanium White. Fill in the entire peach shape. This glowing base layer will help the later reds pop.
2. Define the Shadow:
   Mix a purplish-shadow tone using your background blue and red. Paint a crescent shape along the bottom left of the peach and underneath it on the table surface to ground the object.
3. Create the Gradient:
   On your palette, mix an orange using Cadmium Red and Yellow. While the yellow base on the canvas is tacky but not soaked, start brushing this orange into the right side and top of the peach.

Step 3: Building Texture and Detail

1. Intensify the Red:
   Using pure Cadmium Red with a damp round brush, glaze over the orange areas, focusing on the “cheek” of the peach where it would be ripest. Use short, curved strokes to mimic the spherical form.
2. Blend the Cleft:
   Deepen the color inside the vertical cleft line using a mix of red and a tiny touch of brown. Soften the edges of this line so it looks like a natural indentation, not a harsh scar.
3. Stipple for Texture:
   To get that fuzzy peach skin look, take a dry, small brush with very little paint (a mix of yellow and white). Gently tap or stipple over the transition area between the red and yellow zones.
4. Refine the Shadow Side:
   Glaze the bottom left (shadow side) of the fruit with a thin wash of Burnt Umber to darken it without losing the underlying yellow glow.
5. Paint the Stem:
   Use the fine liner brush and Burnt Umber to paint the small stem. Add a tiny highlight of white on the left side of the stem to show dimension.
6. Cast Shadow:
   Darken the blue surface directly beneath the peach with a mix of Blue and Black. Feather this dark shadow out into the lighter blue background.

Step 4: Final Touches

1. Highlight the Skin:
   Mix a pale cream color. Add very subtle, soft highlights on the upper left shoulder of the peach where the light hits. Keep these edges soft and blended.
2. Clean Up Edges:
   If any peach color strayed onto the background, use your original blue mix to carefully sharpen the outline of the fruit.
3. Sign the Edge:
   For a gallery-style finish, use a fine liner brush or a paint pen to write your signature vertically along the painted side edge of the canvas.
4. Varnish:
   Once fully dry (give it 24 hours), apply a satin varnish to unify the sheen of the different paint colors and protect your work.

Hang this vibrant piece in a kitchen nook or lean it on a shelf for an instant pop of color

This adorable bear portrait turns a basic square canvas into a charming piece of nursery art or desk decor. Using simple shapes and earthy tones, you will build up this cuddly character layer by layer for a clean, graphic finish.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Sketching and Background

1. Lightly sketch the outline:
   Begin by sketching a large arch shape starting from the bottom corners of the canvas. This will be the bear’s main head shape. The top of the arch should stop about an inch from the top edge.
2. Add the ears:
   Draw two semi-circles on the top left and top right corners of the head arch. Ensure they look evenly spaced.
3. Define the snout:
   Inside the main head arch, sketch a wide oval shape near the bottom center for the snout area. It should take up a significant portion of the lower face.
4. Background color:
   Mix a tiny bit of brown into your white paint to create an off-white or cream color. Paint the background area behind the bear’s head (the two upper corners between the ears).
5. Paint the top edge:
   Carry that cream background color onto the top edge of the canvas for a finished, professional look.

Step 2: Blocking in the Face

1. Paint the main fur:
   Using your Burnt Sienna or rusty brown paint and a flat shader brush, fill in the large arch shape of the head. Carefully go around the ears and the snout oval you sketched.
2. Wrap the sides:
   Don’t stop at the outline! Paint the sides and bottom edge of the canvas with the same rusty brown to continue the bear’s face dimensionally.
3. Fill the snout:
   Wash your brush thoroughly. Use a clean cream or beige color to paint the snout oval. Make sure this shape touches the bottom edge of the canvas.
4. Paint the ears:
   Switch to your dark brown paint. Fill in the two semi-circle ear shapes. You may need a smaller brush here to keep the edges crisp against the rust color.
5. Second coat:
   Acrylics can be translucent. Once the first layer is dry to the touch, apply a second coat to the rust fur, the cream snout, and dark ears to ensure solid, opaque coverage.

Step 3: Adding the Cute Details

1. Paint the nose:
   In the upper center of the cream snout area, paint a soft, rounded triangle shape in black. The top should be slightly curved, not sharp.
2. Draw the mouth:
   Using a very fine liner brush and black paint (thinned slightly with water for better flow), paint a small vertical line down from the nose, connecting to a shallow ‘w’ shape for the smile.
3. Add the eyes:
   Paint two small black circles for eyes on the rust-colored fur. Position them just outside the snout area, aligning roughly with the top of the nose.
4. Rosy cheeks:
   Mix a soft pink shade. Paint two circles on the cheeks, slightly lower than the eyes and further out to the sides. I find painting these freehand gives them a sweet, organic look.
5. Eye sparkles:
   Dip the handle end of a small brush into white paint. Dot a tiny speck of white into the upper right part of each black eye to bring the bear to life.
6. Forehead details:
   Using a thin brush and the cream color from the snout, paint small, dashed confetti-like strokes on the forehead between the ears to suggest fur texture.
7. Final touches:
   Check your edges. If any paint lines are messy, use your liner brush to touch them up with the corresponding color once everything is dry.

Display your new forest friend on a mini easel or hang it directly on the wall for an instant dose of cuteness

Bring the cosmos into your room with this striking mini canvas featuring a gas giant planet against a deep, starry backdrop. The distinctive bands of color and shimmering stars make this a simple yet impactful piece to paint.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Setting the Scene

1. Prepare the background:
   Begin by painting the entire canvas surface with solid black acrylic paint. Don’t forget to paint the sides of the canvas for a finished, professional look.
2. Ensure opacity:
   Let the first coat dry completely. If the canvas texture still shows through or looks streaky, apply a second coat of black to get a velvety, deep space background.
3. Outline the planet:
   Once the black paint is bone dry, place your circle template (or jar lid) in the center of the canvas. Lightly trace the circle using a white charcoal pencil or very softly with a regular pencil.

Step 2: Painting the Planet

1. Base layer:
   Mix a soft beige tone using White and a tiny dot of Burnt Sienna. Fill in the entire circle with this base color to block out the black background.
2. Create the bands:
   While the base is still slightly tacky, mix a terracotta shade (Burnt Sienna) and an orangey-peach tone. Using a flat brush, paint horizontal, slightly curved bands across the planet to mimic atmospheric stripes.
3. Blend the transitions:
   Clean your brush and use it slightly damp to soften the edges where the peach and terracotta stripes meet the beige base. You want a soft, cloudy look rather than hard stripes.
4. Add highlights:
   Mix a tint of almost-white cream. Gently dry-brush this color onto the upper curves of the lighter bands to give the planet a spherical, 3D dominance.
5. Deepen shadows:
   On the bottom right curve of the planet, glaze a thin, watery layer of Burnt Sienna or thinned transparent black to create a shadow side, reinforcing the round shape.
6. Paint the moon:
   To the left of the main planet, freehand a small circle about the size of a pea. Paint this solid terracotta or dull orange.

Step 3: Starry Details

1. Mix star paint:
   Thoroughly clean your small round brush. Dip it into pure Titanium White paint; you might need to thin the paint with a tiny drop of water so it flows smoothly.
2. Add distinct stars:
   Dot random stars across the black background. Vary the pressure to create different sizes, clustering some together and leaving other areas sparse.
3. Draw the major stars:
   Choose 3 or 4 spots for ‘hero’ stars. Paint a small cross shape (+) at these points. I find that elongating the vertical line slightly makes them look more elegant.
4. Add diagonal rays:
   Carefully paint a smaller ‘X’ over the center of your crosses to create an eight-pointed starburst effect.
5. Highlight the glimmer:
   Add a tiny, concentrated dot of thick white paint right in the center of these starbursts to make them glow.
6. Create the Milky Way mist:
   Load an old toothbrush or stiff bristle brush with thinned white paint. Test it on a paper towel first, then gently flick faint spray around the corners and near the planet for a nebula effect.
7. Trace faint orbits:
   Using extremely watered-down white (almost transparent), you can paint a very subtle halo or faint dots around the moon or main planet to suggest orbital dust.
8. Final touches:
   Check your edges. If any star splatter got onto the planet face, touch it up with the beige or peach paint to keep the foreground clean.

Place your finished galaxy on a small easel or shelf to add a touch of cosmic wonder to your space

Bring a touch of cozy charm to your space with this simple yet effective repeating heart pattern. Using warm, earthy tones on a natural canvas creates a modern, sophisticated look that feels far more expensive than it is to make.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Preparation and Grid

1. Prepare the canvas:
   Start with a clean, dry canvas. If your canvas is bright white and you prefer the natural linen look shown in the inspiration, apply a base coat of unbleached titanium or warm beige paint mixed with a little water for a wash effect. Let it dry completely.
2. Create a heart template:
   On a small piece of cardstock, draw a simple, symmetrical heart shape that is about 0.75 inches tall. Cut it out carefully to use as your tracing guide.
3. Mark the rows:
   Using your ruler and pencil, lightly mark horizontal lines across the canvas to keep your rows straight. Space them about 1 inch apart to allow breathing room between the hearts.
4. Mark the columns:
   Mark vertical tick marks along your horizontal lines to indicate where the center of each heart should go. Offset every other row (like a brick pattern) to create the dynamic flow seen in the example.

Step 2: Painting the Pattern

1. Mix your palette:
   Squeeze out your four chosen colors: rust orange, teal green, dusty pink, and mauve. Aim for a matte finish if possible, or mix in a tiny bit of matte medium.
2. Trace the hearts (optional):
   If you are nervous about freehanding, use your cardstock template to lightly trace the heart outline at each tick mark. Keep the pencil lines faint so they don’t show through lighter paint colors.
3. Start with the first color:
   Load your flat brush with the teal green paint. Paint random hearts scattered across the canvas, skipping spaces for the other colors. I like to paint about 25% of the hearts with this first shade.
4. Apply the second color:
   Rinse your brush thoroughly and switch to the rust orange. Fill in another quarter of the hearts, trying to ensure two of the same color aren’t touching.
5. Add the softer tones:
   Continue the process with the dusty pink. This lighter color helps balance the visual weight of the darker teal and rust.
6. Fill the remaining spots:
   Finish filling in the grid with the mauve color. Step back occasionally to check the color balance and make sure no area looks too heavy with one specific shade.
7. Refine the edges:
   Use the edge of your flat brush to crisp up the V-shape at the bottom of the hearts and the curves at the top. The shape doesn’t need to be perfect; slight variations add to the hand-painted charm.

Step 3: Finishing Touches

1. Address the sides:
   Don’t forget the edges of the canvas. Continue the pattern onto the sides and top/bottom for a professional, gallery-wrapped appearance.
2. Erase guidelines:
   Once the paint is 100% dry to the touch, gently run your eraser over the canvas to remove any visible pencil grid lines.
3. Seal the artwork:
   Apply a coat of matte varnish or spray sealant to protect the paint and unify the sheen across the canvas.

Display upright on a shelf or mantle to add a sweet, handmade accent to your decor

Capture the abstract movement of the ocean meeting the shore with this small canvas project. By utilizing dynamic brushstrokes and simple dot work, you’ll create a stylized seascape featuring deep teal waves and shimmering copper sands.

How-To Guide

Step 1: Setting the Background

1. Divide the canvas:
   Visualize a diagonal curve splitting your canvas. The top left two-thirds will be water, and the bottom right corner will be sand.
2. Block in the water:
   Using a medium flat brush, paint the upper section with your deep teal color. Ensure you paint over the edges of the canvas for a finished look.
3. Block in the sand:
   Clean your brush and fill in the bottom right corner with your metallic copper or reddish-brown paint. Let the two colors meet but don’t worry about a perfect blend yet.

Step 2: Creating Movement

1. Add lighter water currents:
   Mix a little white into your teal to make a lighter turquoise. While the base is still slightly tacky, streak this lighter color through the water area using long, sweeping curved strokes that follow the shape of a wave.
2. Deepen the shadows:
   Add a tiny touch of black or dark blue to your original teal. Apply thin streaks of this darker shade between the lighter curves to create depth.
3. Texture the sand:
   Load your brush with the copper paint and add a tiny dot of white without fully mixing it. Drag this across the sand section in curved lines mirroring the water to simulate the wet sand look.

Step 3: Refining the Waves

1. Define the shoreline:
   Mix a pale turquoise (mostly white with a dot of teal). Use a small flat brush to paint a confident, curving line where the water meets the sand.
2. Add wave crests:
   Using the same pale turquoise mix, add swirly lines further back in the deep water to suggest rolling waves.
3. Create flow lines:
   Switch to a fine liner brush. With thinned-down white paint, draw very thin, fluid accent lines alongside your main turquoise curves. These act as the highlights on the moving water.

Step 4: The Sea Foam Detail

1. Start the foam line:
   Dip a fine brush or the wrong end of a paintbrush handle into pure white paint.
2. Dot the shoreline:
   Stipple clustered dots along the boundary line between the teal and copper. Make the dots denser near the line and more sparse as they spread outward.
3. Create spray:
   Add tiny, scattered white dots floating above the wave crests in the deep water section to mimic sea spray.
4. Detail the sand:
   Sprinkle a few rogue white dots onto the copper section, looking like foam left behind by a receding tide.
5. Paint the edges:
   Check the sides of your canvas again. Carry the wave lines and foam dots over the edge so the painting looks complete from every angle.

Allow the canvas to dry completely before displaying your mini abstract seascape on a shelf or desk

This elegant little project combines the soft, bleeding edges of a watercolor wash with the crisp definition of line art. It allows for beautiful imperfections in the background while bringing focus to a delicate botanical sketch in the foreground.

Step-by-Step

Step 1: Preparing the Surface

1. Prime the canvas:
   Since traditional canvas repels watercolor, I recommend applying a thin layer of watercolor ground or clear gesso first. Let this dry completely to create a surface that holds the wash better.
2. Dampen the center:
   Using your clean paintbrush and clear water, lightly wet the center area of the canvas in an organic, roughly oval shape, leaving the edges dry.

Step 2: Creating the Background Wash

1. Mix your palette:
   Prepare watery pools of light orange, peach, and a hint of dusty pink on your palette.
2. Drop in color:
   Touch your brush, loaded with light orange, to the wet center of the canvas. Watch the pigment bloom outward into the wet fibers.
3. Add variation:
   While the first color is still wet, drop in small amounts of the pink and peach tones in random spots to create subtle gradients.
4. Soften the edges:
   If the edges look too harsh, use a damp, clean brush to gently feather the paint outward, keeping that irregular, cloudy shape.
5. Create distinct watermarks:
   Allow the paint to pool slightly in some areas; as it dries, the pigment will settle into the canvas texture, creating beautiful hard edges known as watermarks.
6. Add splatter details:
   Load a small amount of slightly darker orange paint onto your brush and tap the handle over the canvas to create tiny speckles around the main wash.
7. Dry completely:
   This is crucial: the canvas must be 100% bone dry before you start drawing. You can use a hairdryer on a low setting to speed this up.

Step 3: Drawing the Botanical

1. Sketch the stem:
   With a pencil, lightly trace a curved line starting from the bottom right and reaching toward the top left.
2. Mark leaf positions:
   Lightly indicate where the leaves will go. Aim for pairs or alternating leaves that get slightly smaller near the top.
3. Ink the main stem:
   Using your black waterproof pen, draw over your stem line with confidence. The line doesn’t need to be perfectly straight; a little wobble adds character.
4. Outline the leaves:
   Draw the leaf shapes attached to the stem. Use a pointed oval shape for each leaf, ensuring the tips are sharp.
5. Add the central veins:
   Draw a single line down the center of each leaf, stopping just short of the tip.
6. Draw side veins:
   Add angled lines branching off the center vein. Keep these lines thin and quick.
7. Review contrast:
   Step back and check your lines. If the pen looks faint against the wash, go over the main outline one more time to thicken it slightly.
8. Erase pencil marks:
   Once the ink is fully dry—wait at least 10 minutes to be safe—gently erase any visible pencil guidelines.

Hang this serene piece in a small nook or on a floating shelf to bring a touch of calm nature indoors

Capture the serenity of a rugged coastline on a small canvas, focusing heavily on the interplay between soft, billowing clouds and hard textured rocks. This project uses impasto techniques to give the painting a tangible, three-dimensional quality that mimics the natural elements.

Step-by-Step Tutorial

Step 1: Preparation and Sky Base

1. Prime with Texture:
   Before adding any color, mix a small amount of modeling paste with titanium white acrylic. Use a palette knife to spread a thin, uneven layer over the entire canvas. This initial grit will grab the paint later.
2. Sketch the Horizon:
   Once the texture is dry, lightly pencil in your horizon line about one-third of the way up from the bottom. Sketch the basic shapes of the foreground rocks sloping down from the right side.
3. Gradient Sky:
   Mix Titanium White with a touch of Cerulean Blue. Start painting at the very top of the canvas, brushing horizontally. As you move down towards the horizon, add more white to the mix to create a natural atmospheric fade.
4. Horizon Warmth:
   Right above the sea line, blend in the tiniest speck of Yellow Ochre into your white paint. This subtle warmth suggests sunlight filtering through the lower atmosphere.

Step 2: Sculpting the Clouds

1. Cloud Base Shapes:
   Mix modeling paste with Titanium White to create a thick, heavy body. Using the tip of a palette knife or a stiff brush, dab on the main cloud shapes. Keep the edges irregular and fluffy.
2. Shadowing the Clouds:
   While the white is still tacky, mix a soft grey using White, a dot of Ultramarine Blue, and a hint of Burnt Umber. Gently blend this into the bottom edges of your cloud masses to give them volume and weight.
3. Highlight Peaks:
   Load cleaner white onto your knife and re-apply crisp highlights to the very tops of the clouds where the sun would hit. The texture paste helps these peaks literally stand out from the canvas.
4. Soften Edges:
   Take a dry, clean brush and very gently feather the edges of the clouds into the blue sky. You want some edges sharp and others blurry to simulate movement.

Step 3: The Sea and Shore

1. Painting the Water:
   Mix a deeper blue-green using Ultramarine, a touch of Sap Green, and White. Paint the sea area with straight, horizontal strokes. Keep the color darker near the foreground and lighter as it meets the sky.
2. Distant Land:
   On the horizon line, add a faint, low strip of land using a muted purple-grey mix. Keep this extremely subtle so it looks far away.
3. Blocking in Rocks:
   For the foreground rocks, mix Burnt Umber, Raw Sienna, and White. Apply this base color in blocky shapes, following the slope you sketched earlier.

Step 4: Texture and Details

1. Rock Highlights:
   Mix a light beige (White + Raw Sienna). Using the side of your palette knife, drag the paint lightly over the dry rock base. The paint will catch only on the raised texture, instantly creating a rough, stony look.
2. Deep Crevices:
   Use a small round brush with watered-down Burnt Umber to paint thin, dark cracks and shadows between the rock slabs. This separation defines the individual stones.
3. Distant Trees:
   Mix Sap Green with Burnt Umber for a dark olive tone. Stipple small, bush-like shapes on the right side of the rock formation, varying the height to suggest trees.
4. Foreground Vegetation:
   Using the same dark olive mix, dab tiny dots of paint in the immediate foreground crevices to represent small scrub bushes growing out of the stone.
5. Final Highlights:
   Add a few final touches of pure white to the tops of the rocks where the light hits hardest, and perhaps a thin white line where the water meets the shore to show foam.

Now step back and enjoy how your textured brushwork brings the calm coastal winds to life

This charming triptych captures the journey of the sun across the sky using simple geometric shapes and soothing blue tones. The textured, painterly style adds depth to these small canvases, making them a perfect beginner adventure in acrylics.

Detailed Instructions

Step 1: Preparing the Sky and Sea

1. Define the horizon line:
   Decide on your horizon line for all three canvases. For this series, place the horizon roughly one-third of the way up from the bottom edge. You can use a strip of painter’s tape across the canvas to ensure a perfectly straight division between sky and sea.
2. Mix the sky colors:
   For the first canvas (morning/moon), mix Titanium White with a tiny touch of Ultramarine Blue to create a very pale, almost white blue. For the second (mid-day), mix a slightly deeper sky blue. For the third (sunset), create a soft, dusty blue-grey by mixing White, Ultramarine, and a tiny dot of Orange to neutralize it.
3. Paint the skies:
   Paint the upper section of each canvas with your mixed sky colors. Use horizontal brushstrokes to keep the look clean. I like to wrap the paint around the sides of the canvas for a finished, gallery-style look without needing a frame.
4. Mix the ocean colors:
   While the skies dry, create your ocean mix. Combine Phthalo Blue (or Teal) with a little bit of Ultramarine Blue. You want a deep, rich petrol blue that contrasts strongly with the light skies.
5. Paint the water:
   Remove the painter’s tape if you used it. Carefully paint the bottom third of each canvas with your dark blue mixture. Use horizontal strokes again, but don’t worry about being too smooth; a little texture here mimics waves.

Step 2: Adding the Sun and Reflection

1. Draft the sun placement:
   Wait for the background paint to be completely dry to the touch. On the first canvas, lightly sketch a small circle high in the sky. On the second, a medium circle in the center. On the third, a large semi-circle resting directly on the horizon line.
2. Paint the first sun:
   For the first canvas (the small circle), use pure Titanium White or a very pale yellow-white mix. Fill in the shape carefully with a small round brush.
3. Paint the second sun:
   For the middle canvas, mix Cadmium Yellow with a little Titanium White for a soft yellow. Fill in the medium circle shape.
4. Paint the third sun:
   For the final canvas, use a bold, saturated yellow-orange. Mix Cadmium Yellow and Cadmium Orange. Paint the large semi-circle that sits on the water’s edge, applying the paint thickly for texture.
5. Add texture to the suns:
   Once the base color of the suns is tacky, dab a little extra paint on top using a stippling motion or a palette knife. This gives that impasto, textured look seen in the reference.

Step 3: The Golden Shimmer

1. Load the detail brush:
   Pour out a small amount of metallic gold acrylic paint. Load a small round brush or a liner brush, wiping off the excess so the bristles aren’t dripping.
2. Create the reflection base:
   Starting directly under the sun on the water section, paint horizontal dash lines. The lines should be widest near the horizon and gradually get narrower as they move down the canvas.
3. Vary the line width:
   Make your horizontal dashes jagged and irregular. Some should be short flicks, others slightly longer, mimicking light catching the tops of ripples.
4. Layer the glimmer:
   Let the first layer of gold dry for a minute, then go back over the center of the reflection path with slightly brighter, thicker gold strokes to intensify the light source.
5. Sign and finish:
   Add your initials in the corner using a fine brush and white or gold paint. Ensure all thick textural elements are fully dry before displaying.

Arrange your trio on a shelf or hang them vertically for a peaceful, solar-inspired display